Відео

(1) Thankfully, I bought much of my film gear before the current spike in prices. In 2019, one could get a complete Hasselblad CM kit for ~$1k USD. (2) I made a point to mention that these backs have been produced for decades and cheaper older models exist--see the comments below where many viewers use older digital backs. You could get set up in medium format digital (with used gear) well below the inflation adjusted price of the 2002 D100 digital body. It's all relative to each of us, but to me that's "cheap". Meanwhile, just shooting and developing ten c41 4x5 photos today costs ~$100.

I have a newer back (you might find it is somewhat cheaper from a reputable online photo store), but keep in mind that there are 25+ years of these various backs on the market and a good one can be had for $1-2k (when they originally cost more than a car). Knowing it might cost $40 per E6 roll for the film, scanning, and dev, one can recover their digital investment quickly (I do develop and scan my film so my cost per roll is much lower). Lastly stitching images is optional. most of the time, I use a fixed adapter that cannot stitch. That Rhinocam adapter looks cool. I'd consider it if I had the right gear!

Makes a change.

It's a shame how little data is exists on this topic to guide folks.

@@bogamanz yea great to see your 2 videos on the subject. I’m like 5 cameras 7 adapters 3 backs deep into this. 🤦🏻‍♂️

I believe the kettle is no longer made, but try the Cobb site for your country. Here is the US version: www.cobbgrillamerica.com/collections/accessories

Weren’t there several variations of the p45? Like a mamiya model and a Hasselblad H model?

Anyway, I bet you need a 4x5 Graflok back for whatever mount p45 you have and the correct sync cable (which you likely have already). Check your manual to confirm.

Helpful comment, thanks. Hopefully someone with a cfv 100c can test. Worth noting, I get the effect when shifting with newer made for digital lens like the Sinar digital line.

Many products have claimed to offer this over the last few decades when I paid attention to these things. I dont think any are great solutions. Here's an example: www.mu-43.com/threads/m43-sensor-for-use-in-35mm-cameras.121499/

Also note that early digital SLRs were film cameras and could be converted back. I remember the first time I saw the Nikon D1 which was built as a digital camera--and how impressed I was. Here is an example of one of these early cameras: www.flickr.com/photos/cgauthier2112/217273743 Here is a later Leica R8-R9 convertible camera: ua-cam.com/video/e8wca_ua0GQ/v-deo.html

I don’t use it in the winter or cold weather and have lots of wood, so that hasn’t been a problem. I’d caution that few have been successful at bending a working coil like I did.

@@bogamanz oh I didn’t know you made them yourself. I see some expensive ones and then cheaper ones. I was wondering what was the best option.

@@SaintJames40 I haven't priced these out, but the larger diameter the coil, the better. The stoves that sit the tub would be the fastest way to heat a tank--but take up space and I wouldn't use these around kids: www.alekoproducts.com/internal-wood-burning-hot-tub-heater-equivalent-to-10-15kw-electronic-heater/kitstovecmy2-ap/?srsltid=AfmBOoqWkK8Frgq-AEK3d1s8s5C0MYa3yLyDQ7Oic33Rid_Kg9O1WqQP9TM

No pool pump at all? Everyone’s saying I should do one but I really don’t want to drill into the side. Just trying to figure out my best option. I have a 300 gallon poly tank. Was wondering if one of those waterfalls that clip onto the side would be enough?

@@SaintJames40 A proper thermal siphon moves the water through the heat on its own. All you need is a paddle to circulate the water in the tank once every now and then.

Thanks for the comment, I am a customer of yours as well and am grateful for your mission. Everyone watching this video should check out Mercury Camera. I've found that this film stock (even with these defects) is still a step up from say 35mm quality.

In theory, you could mount your Hasselblad film back to 2x3 or 4x5 Graflok with the correct adapter, but (1) only certain Hasselblad backs allow you to manual advance the image (the very old ones, or the 70mm ones do); (2) most adapters will use a different film plane--further back than the Linhof backs (which makes using your infinity stops a pain, and might impact your ability to use wide angle lenses), (3) some adapters will not allow you to remove the darkslide. None of these problems are deal breakers with digital backs using smaller sensors, but might ruin your day using 6x6 film. Linhof made lovely 6x6 Super Rollex backs. I'd recommend going this route.

@@bogamanz good points. I just realized about the A120 backs needing gear crank. My A70 requires it as well. It can only handle crank from loading to 0-1 & stops It there an older 70 not A? I use A70 100-200. I can get a dedicated Linhof Rollex 70mm as well as I think for the 6x7 on the Linhof IV

@@khanscombe619 with your a70 back, I think once you get past the mechanical stop on frame one, you will be able to manually crank again and watch the frame counter to advance. I’m not an expert on the different models though.

Great to hear you are getting into it! You have the a70 back that uses 70mm cassettes or one of the high capacity models you load in the dark? Would love to hear about those models. Did your back need service?

The adapter I show is for 4x5 graflox cameras, and I'm not certain it was made by Mamiya since it has no markings. I think the seller shared that info with me. Would something like this work? www.ebay.com/itm/284224752528 Looks 3d printed, so not sure about the quality.

Do you find that the internal mechanisms of the camera produce some vignetting on the corners despite the generous image circle? I have this problem with some lenses, especially when using movements.

@@bogamanz Yes, the Copal 3 shutter is definitely not large enough and vignettes a bit even without movements. If I had the time and money I'd get myself a Sinar Hinterlinsenverschluss, mount the back on that thing and figure out a way to add a lens adapter to it. Flange wise it should work.

@@bogamanz BTW if I remember correctly, the TrueWide was designed for 6mp 24x36 sensors of the Phase One H10 series. So no wonder it doesn't work perfectly. And there's also v mount to Sinar adapter plates all over eBay. Or at least there used to be. So one would only need to worry about the lens mount.

@MaxKissler Thanks for sharing this important context. Pining this thread for future viewers, this setup has disadvantages compared to say the Linhof setup I show at the end of the video, but is cheap and durable..

@@bogamanzSince I'm using a Leaf Aptus II 7 I don't have the option of using a system without mechanical shutter. So the Linhof wouldn't be an option as there is no way such a short focal length could be used on the Linhof especially not with a shutter in between. It's more of fun project though. There's hardly ever a need for me to shoot this wider than 15mm on FF. Cheers!

Of course! What kind of camera do you have? E.g., are you looking for a 4x5 graflok back version? Is a sliding feature important to you? Overall, the Jieyling brand is solid.

I am planning to build a 4x5 camera (or get one if I can't make one). Aim is to get significant tilt-shift capabilities. So a 4x5 graflok back should be best for the cfvii 50c. A sliding feature is not necessary, but maybe helpful for panoramas. The back adapter on your camera at the end seems very interesting. I tried looking for jieyling on AliExpress but couldn't find anything relevant. Any links you can share would be really helpful.

@@sounak_mitra1403 here is what you need: www.ebay.com/itm/115117983268?itmmeta=01HQN6X3Y4FHSW8YFESYYDQKNG&hash=item1acd910624:g:6sYAAOSwTtZhpHxE&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0FjlQDHR%2B9biWcwk1Jax3dD8gKwn97ZmjLCSXv9vClpdEEpYi5LxGJVPuflpd7RocXztQnhoRTYZOn8z8peZB2%2BSVYM06eBG%2BPyv58Vbean2PM4foIvShQRMUXpbtF0XIZ%2BS0ufOtxxl87j1n9j8in2jQcQHwwgCPzaWsSMxX2sJHksA3IFO6N6d25mDZY9eDbDE61MJHukMvDXH%2FmHhPBZZhl%2FotzRlX07S15o2cxnXQvnVNNQcCNwQplrRdSipnIDVu5%2B8pQgXTTs%2FtGADZgA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5K_9Ka9Yw

For future viewers, the Ebay product was “Hasselblad V adapter For linhof sinar toyo horseman wista 4x5 camera accessory”.

@@bogamanz thanks a lot!!

Getting the coil to rise at each point is harder than it looks. If the coil dips down in some spot, you will have problems. It seems like many who tried to duplicate my video have not been successful.

One thought I just had after replying: my coil (in the video) is hard to do right since each layer of the coil sits on the previous layer. If people trying this today added a way of spacing each coil vertically (so that there is an inch or so between layers to create more "rise"), I think they would have fewer problems. Than again, I'm a non-exert, and should be ignored!

Thank you! We've been happy with the motor. The dingy is getting a little small as my daughter grows. I'm looking forward to trying this motor with a light weight flat stern canoe in the spring. I also use this motor on my Montgomery 15 sailboat.

@@bogamanz ​ Thanks for your follow up, and, in particular, for mentioning that you use the 603 on your 15-ft. sailboat. I would be curious to hear your thoughts on the 603 in that role, especially in fighting tides / currents, and in runtime. I am at this moment trying to decide on an electric outboard to use with my (new-to-me) 1996 Trinka 12, a 12-foot fiberglass sailing dinghy (displacement 225 lbs., manufacturer rated at 2 hp). I think it's down to the 603 or a still smaller and lighter outboard called the EP Carry. The company that makes the EP Carry claims that by design (like a high aspect ratio prop) and efficiency, it delivers more power than the 603 despite having half the power measured in watts. Seems hard to believe but some people seem to swear by the EP. And I do prefer aspects of its design, which uses an external, non-proprietary battery, and the lower weight is also attractive on a 225-lb. hull. (A third choice might be the Torqeedo 903 (2.5 hp equiv.) which has now replaced the 603.) We are still early in the age of electric outboards and it's hard to have a sense solely via the Internet just how two motors compare or how a given motor will perform on a given boat.

@@ttnyny I also have a Honda 2.3. It is loud and sometimes fussy, but can run all day with enough fuel. I think your boat can plane, so your experience will be different from my displacement boats. I don't care about more power, 2 HP or 2.3 HP can get either boat to hull speed. The difference is the gas motor is noisy, but can push against current/wind for hours. The electric motor is better for getting out of tight spots and has plenty of power for a short period. It starts instantly and doesn't stall. I don't have to clean or replace the carburetor all the time either. It is more pleasant to use especially when motor-sailing. I can slowly charge the battery off my boat's powerful 12V battery bank. Without looking into it, I have a hard time believing that more power/lower watt spec, but have heard the 603 is optimized for lower speeds. Using the speed calculator on the EP Cary site, I would have only hit 3mph on my 8foot inflatable with the load seen in this video. I claim to hit 4mph, but the GPS display on the motor shows 3.7 at one point in the video with a range of about 5 miles (so the stock battery would go about 2.5 miles at this speed).

This build did involve soldering.

Glad you lived to tell about it! Thank the lord they make tables out of tempered glass.

@@bogamanz I agree, with one caveat "they make some tables out of tempered glass" but kids don't know the difference for the most part so just letting others know about it and my coffee table is not tempered glass. And thanks for the videos on the hot tub, going to try that in the future. Take care.

I've commented this before, but make sure the coil is continuously rising. The water must not be forced downward at any point.

To be fair, I don't travel for work much (since the coronavirus) and no longer carry this computer wherever I go or need the printer when traveling. This little printer is great for someone who occasionally prints and works on modern computers too. Last time I checked, they were still making them.

Latest model: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1743473-REG/brother_pj_822_pocketjet_8_200dpi_thermal.html/?ap=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=CjwKCAjwgZCoBhBnEiwAz35RwsmULBicQqdeYz5Db6XEfirPb_if3ylyY_wxAKGZ5H12_GU0WEd07BoConcQAvD_BwE

The fire pit rusted through, but the rest is ok. I don’t run the pump once it heats up.